Wednesday, July 15, 2015

Why does glass turn purple?

A year or so ago, my mother - a frequent visitor to the American Southwest in the course of her life - asked me if I knew why glass would turn purple if left in the sun, particularly in the intense sun of the Southwest.

It wasn't something that I'd heard of before, but I'll admit that Mom's spent more time in the Arizona sun than I have, so I went a'researching.

In material science we discuss additions to glass - to lower the melting point, change the thermal expansion, widen the softening range, further dull the electrical conductivity, improve the sparkle, change the color, improve the strength. These additives each have their own historical profiles due to research, economics, politics, environmental concerns.

Here I'm going to quote liberally from the Corning Museum's article on solarized glass...
The major constituent of most glasses is silica, which is usually introduced as a raw material in the form of sand. Although silica itself is colorless in glass, most sands contain iron as an impurity, and this imparts a greenish tint to glass. (In ancient times, glassmakers used very impure sands, with iron contents higher than those of sands used today, so most ancient glasses have a pronounced greenish color.)

By adding certain other ingredients to a molten glass, it is possible to offset the greenish color and produce colorless glasses. Such ingredients are known as decolorizers, and one of the most common is manganese dioxide (MnO2). In chemical terms, the manganese acts as an oxidizing agent and converts the iron from its reduced state (which is a strong greenish blue colorant) to an oxidized state (which has a yellowish, but much less intense, color). In the course of the chemical reaction, the manganese goes into a chemically reduced state which is virtually colorless.

Manganese dioxide is believed to have been first used as a decolorizer as early as about the second century B.C. It was probably introduced as the mineral pyrolusite. From Roman times onward, glasses often contain about 0.5% to 1.0% manganese oxide (MnO). Later on, manganese dioxide (MnO2) was sometimes called "glassmakers' soap."

If pieces of decolorized glass containing reduced manganese are exposed to ultraviolet light for long periods of time, the manganese may become photo-oxidized. This converts the manganese back into an oxidized form, which, even in rather low concentrations, imparts a pink or purplish color to glass. The ultraviolet rays of the sun can promote this process over a matter of a few years or decades, thus accounting for the color of desert glass. The effect has been reproduced in the laboratory.
The article also mentions that selenium and cerium oxides can also solarize in glass but to an amber or light brown color.

Dumpdiggers (an antique blogger - or rather a blogger about antiques, I don't know that he's an actual antique) writes about a different process through which this solarization can be recreated on a shorter time scale...
Sometimes called desert glass, or sun-colored amethyst glass, these pretty purple bottles are fake; their color is artificially produced by gamma radiation in a lead lined chamber by an unscrupulous merchant with one motive – profit.

...

When exposed to the radioactive isotopes Cobalt-60 and Cesium-137, most manganese glass will turn amethyst, while glass made with selenium will become either straw, wheat, or honey colored.

Dumpdiggers then links to a fairly scientific article on the National Insulator Association's website addressing these concerns about artificially inducing colors in glass insulators, including a practice of heat treating solarized (naturally or artificially) glass insulators...
Exposure to high levels of heat will reverse the sun’s ultra-violet purpling effects on glass. This procedure is often referred to by collectors as “cooking”. During the thermal reversal or “cooking” process, the manganese is once again the key stimulant. In most cases, when a sun “purpled” insulator is heated to high temperatures, generally a step below melting, it will revert back to a shade in close proximity to its original manufactured color.

...

Our final category of alterations involves exposing irradiated insulators to high levels of heat. In some instances this creates a secondary altered color, much different in appearance to the primary irradiated color. During one of our numerous experimental procedures, one particular pony insulator was first altered from its original color of light blue aqua to a burnt olive brown. This same insulator was then subjected to extreme thermal exposure, transforming to a medium shade of cornflower blue.   We know that some of the unscrupulous new era “nukers” are using this same process to dial in colors that very closely mimic authentic insulator colors, and with considerable accuracy. Even though such color duplications look authentic, they are, of course, outright frauds. These “chameleons” can be very difficult to identify.
...
We are currently looking at a possible method for identifying irradiated insulators that fall within a specific color range. As we know, natural purple or sun colored purple glass insulators contain manganese. Generally, the darker the purple the more manganese content in the glass. Manganese is very sensitive under a black light, providing a yellow to greenish yellow glow. The glowing intensity of authentic purple insulators is fairly easy to measure with the human eye, particularly after viewing several examples with a long wave black light in a completely dark room. We have found that most irradiated purple insulators display a diminished glow when compared to authentic purples. We have also noted that some of our insulator samples exhibited good black light glowing characteristics prior to radiation exposure, then deadened under a black light after radiation exposure. We are continuing our testing with this method and hope to have more validated and expanded information in the near future.
I find all of this absolutely fascinating and a wonderful application of the multivalent colors of manganese. For collectors, though, this is clearly a hugely decisive issue.

I kind of want to buy a few cheap glass insulators to line my classroom's windows now...and I kinda want some two-tone ones...


Saturday, July 11, 2015

The Elemental Composition of Metal Alloys

Green gold...white gold...red gold...chartreuse gold...yellow gold...royal blue with a hint of pink gold...

Are there any colors that can't be used to describe gold?

Compound Interest just posted a great graphic showing the metals in a number of common alloys - along with ranges for each metal's percentage composition within that alloy. Plus the page also has some explanations of just what alloys - particularly substitutional and interstitial alloys - are.

Great info...

Tuesday, June 30, 2015

Shape It! Sand 5lb


We don't all have access to a local beach on which to do our metal casting. If you do have access to a beach, go for it, have a blast, just don't send us photos. Nobody else wants to see your beach photos while we're sitting at home in a landlocked state. Just quit it, Amanda.

If, however, you're nowhere near a beach, you're going to need to get yourself some nearer sand for metal casting. In particular, I like the Shape It! Sand (available under a few different brand names). Shape It! stays nice and moist thanks to some polymer additives that stay permanently moist, letting the sand pack together well into whatever little butter tub (or similar container - maybe something metal just in case the molten tin - because that's what I use in class) you're going to be pouring your metal.

And the best price around for Shape It! Sand is at Fat Brain Toys, $24.99 (link and price updated 7/5/18) for five pounds of the stuff in just about any color you could imagine (as long as you don't imagine orange.)


Make your own bioplastic



That's just goop.

I guess it's a plastic and all, but it looks like you're making a big blob of snot.

The recipe goes a little something like this...
  • 1 tbsp cornstarch (tapioca starch recommended in the video)
  • 4 tbsp water
  • 1 tsp glycerine
  • 1 tsp vinegar
  • mix while cold
  • heat until thick and snot-toothpaste-like and completely clear (see 1:50 for final product)
  • spread on silicon mat and let cool
Here's another, similar recipe with way more explanation of the science - but a foolishly white background making the mixture almost impossible to see.

How to make Prince Rupert's drops - glass that fractures at the speed of high explosives



NightHawkInFlight doesn't specify which type of glass he's using, but I'm pretty sure it's just soda lime glass (available from Flinn Scientific, at least that's our common source for the summer camps.)

The technique for making Prince Rupert's drops takes a little practice but really isn't all that tough to manage with a little trial and error.

Here's another POV - including a fair bit of the science and where Prince Rupert's drops would fit into a science curriculum.


Artistic Chemistry: a beuatiful collaboration

I'd never heard of Frog Valley before reading the April 2012 Chem Matters article, "Artistic Chemistry: a beautiful collaboration," and to be quite honest, the article didn't exactly tempt me to drive six and a half hours to see an artist collective. As the last paragraph of the article says, "you may want to try raku pottery or stained glass. Classes are offered throughout the United States, and chances are, classes are available near you." 

Apparently there's no reason to go to Frog Valley. Thanks, Helen Herlocker.

The other part of that last paragraph, though, "while you learn about the properties of the materials and how they interact with each other, you will discover that it really is all about chemistry!"

The article covers the science of raku pottery (oxidation, reduction, metals, and metallic oxides) as well as the copper foil method of making stained glass windows (chemical reactions, production of hydrochloric acid, tarnishing of the copper foil).

Plus you get to see some really pretty artwork.

Get out there and take a class this summer, folks. Make a stained glass piece (don't leave it out for your custodian to knock over like I foolishly did with mine). Throw a raku pot. Blow glass.

Learn something.

Make something beautiful.

The afterlife of plastics


In 2003 I read an article titled "Anything Into Oil" from Discover magazine. That article described a process through which effectively all trash (other than heavy metals) was going to be recycled into usable oil of various molecular weights.

That's it, I thought, no more trash. We're done. We've got that whole trash problem licked. All the landfills can be dug back up and run through the Anything-Into-Oil-er machine to make profit. Step two had finally been solved.

Two years later...update... two more years later...another update...

Flash to seven years later than that and I'm still sending my trash to Mount Rumpke.

Along comes "The Afterlife of Plastic" from Al Jazeera in which we get to read about a new plant opened up to turn plastic into oil. Some of the details are simplified a bit...
Plastic is usually made by heating crude oil, cooling it and adding preservatives so it is able to hold its shape. It can then be molded into light, flexible forms for use as shopping bags, takeout containers or plastic toys.
I'm all in favor of the recycling of plastic and keeping microscopic bits out of the oceans and everything, but I've been hearing promised solutions to the intractable problems with plastics for a decade now.

Don't toy with my emotions here, folks.

Thanks, by the way, to Brian Wright for passing this link along.